Are Lash Bonders Actually Necessary?
It's one of the most polarizing products in the lash industry: the bonder. Lash brands sell it as a retention booster, a finishing step, a seal that makes everything last longer. But Danielle and Ashtyn from Behind the Brilliance have a different take: bonders are, in most cases, completely unnecessary.
In Episode 13, they break down the chemistry, the marketing, and the real reason your retention may be suffering. Spoiler: it is probably not your bonder.
What Bonders Are Designed to Do
A lash bonder is typically a cyanoacrylate-based product applied after lash extensions are placed. The goal is to speed up or strengthen the adhesive cure. But here's the issue: you're already working with a cyanoacrylate adhesive. Adding more of the same chemical compound near your client's eyes increases their chemical exposure without necessarily improving the end result.
As Ashtyn put it: "A lot of bonders have cyanoacrylate in them. So we're already trying to reduce exposure of this to people's eyes anyway. Why bring more in?"
The Real Problem Bonders Are Covering Up
If your retention is suffering, Danielle and Ashtyn argue that the issue lies in one of two places: the adhesive you're using, or your application technique. A bonder can temporarily mask weak isolation, improper humidity control, or an adhesive that doesn't suit your environment. But it does not fix the root cause.
Danielle said it directly: "If you need a bonder to improve your retention, then there is something wrong with either your adhesive or your application technique."
The Water Scrub Method
One of the most valuable takeaways from this episode is the water scrub method. This is a technique Danielle and Ashtyn use to test adhesive bond strength right in the middle of a service, without adding any products.
Here's the basic approach: after placing extensions, use a clean brush or spoolie with water and lightly work through the lashes. If the bond is strong and your isolation is clean, the extensions stay put. Water activates the cure naturally, which is exactly what adhesive is designed to respond to. Ashtyn explained: "Water cures the adhesive. So why bring another chemical in if you're already curing your adhesive with water?"
What to Focus On Instead
Rather than reaching for a bonder, Danielle and Ashtyn recommend investing in:
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A high-quality adhesive suited to your humidity level and curing speed
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Proper isolation technique so each extension sits cleanly on a single natural lash
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Understanding your environment: humidity, temperature, and how they affect curing time
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Client education on aftercare and the natural shed cycle
As Danielle put it toward the end of the episode: "I'm not saying bonders are evil. They're just unnecessary. They're an added step. They're an added cost."
Listen to the Full Episode
Catch Episode 13 of Behind the Brilliance on YouTube and all podcast platforms through Buzzsprout.
https://youtu.be/ae9S-gCAmQk?si=lsfB0Yk0C1USP-h_
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